Hyderabad: Flavour of Munshi Naan still lingers
Hyderabad: Entering the neighbourhood of Purani Haveli, one is greeted with the enticing aroma of freshly baked naan coming from underground tandoor or earthen ovens. The area is dotted with dozens of naan or flatbread shops. But Khadeem Munshi Naan shop, located in the densely populated Purani Haveli in the Old City, has a legacy. […]
Hyderabad: Entering the neighbourhood of Purani Haveli, one is greeted with the enticing aroma of freshly baked naan coming from underground tandoor or earthen ovens.
The area is dotted with dozens of naan or flatbread shops. But Khadeem Munshi Naan shop, located in the densely populated Purani Haveli in the Old City, has a legacy. The eatery traces its origin to 1851.
It was started by Mohammed Hussain Saheb and according to fourth-generation owner Khaja Abdul Hameed, Hussain used to work as a munshi (clerk) in one of the offices under the fourth Nizam of Hyderabad, Nasir-ud-Dowla. On a visit to Delhi, he learned the recipe of naan and started making it in Hyderabad.
Khadeem Munshi Naan shop, located in the densely populated area of Purani Haveli in Old City, is famous for its soft and fluffy naans in different shapes like stars, circles and hearts.
“My great-grandfather used to work as a munshi in the morning and managed the store in the evening. He supplied them to common people in bulk and even for the Nizam. Eventually, as orders poured in, he left his job and opened the store which he named over his profession. At that time it was a poor man’s breakfast,” says Hameed. Presently, over 1,500 pieces of naan are baked every day.
The same recipe is being followed for generations and they use maida, cardamom, oil, salt, and curd. Naans are topped with jaggery before putting them into tandoor bhatti which is made of clay with insulating material like concrete or mud on the outside. The batter is hung in a cloth for at least 12 hours and retrieved in the morning.
“We make naans in different shapes like stars, circles, and hearts. However, Char Koni Naan, a square-shaped variety, is still most preferred by our loyal customers,” shares Hameed, adding that today’s tech-savvy generation from different parts of the city is also showing interest in tasting their traditional naans.
Their naans are so tender that even a person with weak teeth can chew them. While vegetarians can pair it with milk or tea, non-vegetarians could have it as an accompaniment with paya, nihari, or kebabs.
The shop still retains its old-world charm with a verandah in front where customers can sit and enjoy scrumptious flatbreads. The owner says there is no thought of expanding the business for the next few years. Currently, there are 10 employees with a few among them working since ages now.
Chaar Koni Naan here sells at Rs 15 per piece and it is prepared in batches three times a day. One can place bulk orders for weddings and family functions. The shop opens at 6 am and runs till 10 pm.
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