Narayanpet saris: Jewel-toned silks with a bejewelled history

Hyderabad: Buttery soft silks in bright colours, lovingly folded and stacked in your grandmother’s almirah, fragrant with the scent of her embrace. Is this the image that comes to mind when you think of Narayanpet saris? True, Narayanpet silks have a long history. But don’t dismiss them as a senior’s staple! These beautiful saris are […]

Hyderabad: Buttery soft silks in bright colours, lovingly folded and stacked in your grandmother’s almirah, fragrant with the scent of her embrace. Is this the image that comes to mind when you think of Narayanpet saris?

True, Narayanpet silks have a long history. But don’t dismiss them as a senior’s staple! These beautiful saris are timeless, not old.

Deep burgundy. Rani pink. Rust orange. The colours of Narayanpet saris reflect the vibrancy of the region. Located in western Telangana near the north Karnataka and south Maharashtra borders, Narayanpet is a melting pot of cultures. This pluralistic influence can be seen in the town’s customs, festivals, jewellery, and, of course, its trademark weave.

The story goes that in the 1630s, Chhatrapati Shivaji camped in Narayanpet during his anti-British campaign. He was enamored by the jewel-toned garments of the locals. While his army moved on, many weavers stayed back, perfecting, over the years, the Narayanpet weave. The Maratha royals patronised these saris, wearing them during auspicious occasions and using them to drape idols of the gods. Even today, Narayanpet silks are immensely popular in Maharashtra and Karnataka.

These saris are woven exclusively by the handloom weavers of Narayanpet and got their GI tag in 2013. Their beauty lies in their vivid colours and contrasting double borders with classic designs of lines and checks. They’re also woven as shot silks with a dual-tone sheen and traditional temple or arrowhead motifs.

Originally a 9-yard weave, given the prevalence of the nauvari and thommidu gaja in olden days, these are available in 6 yards today. With a minimum thread count of 80, they’re soft, drapeable, and perfect as all-day wear. They’re also affordably priced between Rs 2,000 and Rs 9,000.

Sadly, in spite of its many attractions, this beautiful weave is on the decline. Reduced demand from youngsters enamored by trendy weaves and the flooding of cheap powerloom imitations in the market have both dealt a blow to Narayanpet handlooms. The town, which once had 50,000 handlooms, has under 200 today.

“Fashion changes, but style endures,” said Coco Chanel. No southern weave is better proof of this than Narayanpet saris. Young sari-wearers must take a closer look at these resplendent saris. Pick an unusual colour combination, pair it with a designer blouse, add the right accessories — and see the magic happen!

(The writer is a handloom, handicraft enthusiast, and an active member of the Crafts Council. Instagram handle: @rajeswariramachander)