From nihari to biryani, LPG shortage hits Hyderabad restaurants

A shortage of commercial LPG cylinders linked to the ongoing Middle East conflict has disrupted Hyderabad’s food scene, forcing several restaurants to stop cooking the popular breakfast dish nihari–paya and switch to firewood for preparing other items.

Hyderabad: The escalating conflict between Israel, the US, and Iran in the Middle East has cast its impact on Hyderabad’s iconic food culture, specifically the beloved ‘nihari–paya’.

The massive cauldrons of simmering stew, traditionally a permanent fixture outside city restaurants, have largely disappeared over the last fortnight due to a severe shortage of commercial LPG.

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Several major eateries have suspended the cooking of ‘nihari’ due to the short supply of LPG gas. “The cooking process stretches for long hours. After nihari is prepared, we have to keep it on the stove and heat it several times to serve it hot. Due to limited LPG cylinder supply, we have temporarily stopped cooking and serving nihari at a few of our restaurants,” said Mohammed Irfan, owner of Shah Ghouse Hotel.

Another popular restaurant, Rumaan Hotel, has also suspended cooking nihari and serving to customers. Gulam Ali, senior manager at Rumaan Hotel, Fateh Darwaza, pointed out that there is a restricted supply of LPG gas cylinders to the restaurants and because of it, they have stopped cooking with it.

“We are explaining the situation to the customers who come in the mornings for nihari-paya and sending them away. Customers are unhappy, but we cannot do anything in present circumstances. We are not even able to get LPG commercial cylinders in the grey market,” said Gulam Ali.

Nihari is a slow-cooked, rich stew made with tender shank meat (beef, mutton, or lamb) cooked overnight with spices, flour, and bone marrow to create a thick, flavourful gravy. It is traditionally served for breakfast with naans. Several restaurants across the city and outskirts serve the stew in the mornings.

Also, due to a short supply of LPG cylinders, the restaurants are using firewood to cook the Biryani, Mandi, Dum ka Murgh, Double ka Meetha and Kaddu ki Kheer.

“Cooking in the traditional way using firewood needs a big spacious place, so we have hired a function hall near the restaurant. It is an additional financial burden. Moreover, the prices of firewood and charcoal increased too,” said Mohd Rabbani, a hotel owner.

A few hotels have trimmed their food menu due to the ongoing crisis. “Due to the Middle-East crisis, there is also an increase in prices of several other items, including edible oil and spices. Restaurants are facing losses, and to save ourselves, we have cut down some dishes,” said Mohd Rasheed, owner of Taj restaurant.