Rewind: Hyderabad’s Haleem, of palate, power, people

Haleem is deeply woven into Hyderabad’s identity and has evolved as an economic powerhouse, a tool for diplomacy, shaping business, politics and community ties across the city and beyond

By Syed Mahmood Faiyaz Mehdi

Growing up in Hyderabad, Ramadan has always been a season of warmth, festivity, and togetherness. The aroma of slow-cooked Haleem fills the streets, drawing people towards bustling eateries and makeshift stalls. As evening falls, families, friends, and even strangers gather to break their fasts.

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The first bite is always magical — a rich, creamy mixture of wheat, lentils and meat, infused with aromatic spices and slow-cooked to perfection. But Haleem is much more than a dish. It is an experience, a tradition, an economic powerhouse, and an instrument of diplomacy, shaping business, politics and social ties across Hyderabad and beyond.

A Historical Journey
Haleem’s journey to Hyderabad spans centuries, with its origins rooted in Persia and the Arab world. The dish, then known as Harees, was a simple yet nourishing preparation of wheat, meat, and spices, slow-cooked into a porridge-like consistency. It was brought to the Indian subcontinent by Arab traders and later refined under the patronage of the Mughals and the Nizams of Hyderabad.

The emergence of vegetarian Haleem as a plant-based alternative reflects Hyderabad’s evolving culinary landscape, where inclusivity and adaptation play a key role

The Nizams, known for their love of rich and elaborate cuisine, transformed Harees into what is today recognised as Hyderabadi Haleem. They introduced a more complex cooking process, blending local spices, broken wheat, and clarified butter (ghee) with slow-cooked meat. Over time, the dish evolved from a royal delicacy to a beloved staple during Ramadan, enjoyed across the city and beyond. Today, Haleem is not just a culinary masterpiece but a representation of Hyderabad’s heritage, seamlessly bridging the past with the present.

The Symbolism
Deeply woven into Hyderabad’s identity, Haleem is a symbol of generosity, unity and goodwill. Its rich history has made it a dish that transcends class and background, bringing people together in a shared experience of taste and tradition.

During Ramadan, restaurants, street vendors, and even households open their doors to share Haleem, reinforcing the city’s famed hospitality. People from all walks of life — rich and poor, young and old — come together over a bowl of Haleem, strengthening social bonds and fostering an atmosphere of inclusivity. The spirit of sharing Haleem extends beyond family circles, as neighbours exchange bowls of the dish and community kitchens distribute it to the less fortunate.

As Hyderabad continues to grow and evolve, Haleem remains a constant, reminding us of the values that define the city. Hyderabadi Haleem was awarded GI tag (geographical identification) in 2010

However, while commercial outlets are known for their flavours, homemade Haleem is often the healthier and more nutritious choice. Made with fresh, carefully selected ingredients and controlled levels of oil and spices, homemade Haleem ensures both taste and well-being. It also allows individuals to experiment with ingredients to cater to dietary preferences, including vegetarian Haleem, which has gained popularity. But its significance does not stop at social unity — Haleem has also emerged as a cultural and diplomatic asset, influencing business, politics and global perceptions of Hyderabad.

Haleem Diplomacy
Hyderabad’s Iftar gatherings have evolved into much more than religious or social events — they are now powerful tools of diplomacy. Every Ramadan, politicians, business leaders and diplomats use these feasts as a platform to engage with communities, discuss policies and build relationships in a relaxed, informal setting.

Elected representatives cutting across party lines attend Iftar feasts to connect with the public and project an image of inclusivity. Sharing Haleem at these gatherings fosters goodwill, creating a unique avenue for political dialogue. Similarly, corporate executives and entrepreneurs leverage these events to network with potential partners, clients, and investors. Many business deals and collaborations take shape in these informal settings, where Haleem acts as both an icebreaker and a bonding element.

Haleem is a driving force behind Hyderabad’s economy. Every year, the Haleem industry generates over Rs 500 crore in revenue, creating thousands of jobs and boosting multiple sectors. It also fuels an economic surge in food delivery services

Religious and social organisations also use Haleem as a means to engage with underprivileged communities, reinforcing the values of charity and social responsibility. This deep-rooted tradition not only strengthens communal harmony but also positions Hyderabad as a city where culture and commerce intertwine.

Healthier, Hygienic
With the increasing demand for Haleem during Ramadan, mass production often leads to concerns about hygiene, food safety, and adulteration. Additionally, being mindful of portion sizes and consumption frequency is crucial. Haleem, though packed with protein and energy, can be calorie-dense due to its slow-cooked nature and the use of ghee and meat. A balanced approach to enjoying this delicacy ensures that it remains a cherished part of Ramadan traditions without compromising health.

Dr CL Venkat Rao, a renowned physician, describes it as a perfectly balanced meal, rich in high-quality protein, complex carbohydrates, and essential nutrients. “The slow-cooked blend of wheat, lentils, and meat ensures sustained energy release, aids digestion, and strengthens immunity,” he explains. The inclusion of spices like turmeric and black pepper enhances metabolism, while collagen from slow-cooked meat supports bone and joint health.

But despite its numerous benefits, Dr Rao advises moderation, as commercially prepared Haleem often contains excess ghee and rich meats, which can lead to a high calorie intake. Opting for healthier variations ensures that this timeless dish remains both nourishing and wholesome.

Rise of Vegetarian Haleem
While traditional Haleem remains the heart of Hyderabad’s food culture, a new variation — vegetarian Haleem — is catching on. This alternative caters to vegetarians and health-conscious individuals while retaining the essence of the traditional dish. Instead of meat, vegetarian Haleem is made using lentils, wheat, dry fruits, and plant-based protein, ensuring a rich, flavourful texture similar to the original.

The emergence of vegetarian Haleem reflects Hyderabad’s evolving culinary landscape, where inclusivity and adaptation play a key role. Many restaurants now offer it alongside the traditional version, ensuring that the experience of Haleem remains accessible to a broader audience. This innovation not only expands the dish’s appeal but also reinforces the communal spirit of sharing and togetherness, making Haleem an even more inclusive tradition.

The Nizams, known for their love of rich and elaborate cuisine, transformed Harees, famous in Persia and the Arab world, into what is today recognised as Hyderabadi Haleem. It was under the seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan in the first half of the 20th century that Haleem became popular in Hyderabad

As Haleem continues to evolve in both its preparation and significance, its role as a cultural unifier and diplomatic tool remains stronger than ever. However, whether traditional or vegetarian, Haleem is more than just a dish — it is a testament to Hyderabad’s rich heritage, its spirit of hospitality, and its power to bring people together beyond all boundaries.

The Ramadan Economy
Haleem is also a driving force behind Hyderabad’s economy. Every year, the Haleem industry generates over Rs 500 crore in revenue, creating thousands of jobs and boosting multiple sectors.

Hyderabad’s famous eateries, from Pista House to Shah Ghouse, compete fiercely for the title of the best Haleem, setting up special counters, extending working hours, and handling bulk orders. The demand also fuels an economic surge in food delivery services, with platforms like Swiggy and Zomato witnessing an exponential rise in Haleem orders during Ramadan.

Whether served at a grand Iftar gathering, a roadside stall, or a fine-dining restaurant, the dish carries the same essence — bringing people together, fostering connections and celebrating a shared legacy

This seasonal boom extends beyond restaurants. The increased demand for meat, wheat, ghee, and spices provides a significant boost to agriculture and livestock sectors. From butchers to spice traders, the entire supply chain benefits from the city’s Haleem obsession. Furthermore, the industry creates thousands of seasonal jobs — from chefs and kitchen assistants to delivery personnel — offering economic opportunities to many in the food and hospitality sector.

Soft Power Tool
Beyond Hyderabad, Haleem has become an ambassador of the city’s rich culinary heritage, placing it firmly on the global food map. The dish has gained immense popularity among food lovers in India and abroad, with frozen and pre-packaged versions now being shipped to international markets, including the West Asia, the UK, the US, and Australia.

For Hyderabadis living abroad, Haleem serves as a nostalgic reminder of home. Many eagerly wait for Ramadan just to indulge in authentic Hyderabadi Haleem, either by visiting the city or ordering it through international distributors.

Additionally, global food festivals and culinary events have recognised Haleem as a world-class dish, further cementing Hyderabad’s reputation as a gastronomic powerhouse. International chefs and food bloggers continue to celebrate its unique taste, nutritional value and historical significance, adding to its global appeal.

Sustaining the Legacy
As Hyderabad’s food culture evolves, Haleem remains at its heart. However, its increasing commercialisation brings challenges, including quality control, ethical sourcing of ingredients and health considerations. Many traditional Haleem makers advocate for standardised preparation methods to ensure authenticity, while newer establishments experiment with innovative, health-focused versions.
With continued international interest, Hyderabad has the opportunity to make Haleem not just a seasonal specialty but a year-round culinary treasure that represents the city on a global scale.

From its royal origins to its modern-day significance in politics, business, and global diplomacy, Haleem continues to evolve. Yet, at its core, it remains a dish that unites hearts and communities, proving that some traditions, no matter how old, only grow stronger with time.

And so, year after year, as the aroma of Haleem fills the streets of Hyderabad, the city’s love affair with this iconic dish continues — one bowl at a time.

(The author is with the Research and Coordination Unit of Dr MCR HRD Institute, Government of Telangana)